Reduced-locking-stitch button-sewing machine.



J, W. DRLEY, JRt REDUCED LOCKINQY STIT .H BUTTON SEWING MACHINE. TIONFILED MAY 28 APPLICA Eatented Jan. 19, 19315y 5 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

J. W. DARLEY, JR, GED LOCKING STITCH BUTTO N SEWING MACHINE.

REDU

'APPLICATION FILED MAY 28, 1904.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

L W. DARLEY, JR, REDUCED LOGEUNG STITSH BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATI'OH FILED MAY 28, 1904.

JOHN DRLEY, JR., OF BALTEMURE, MARYLN.

REDUCED-'LOCKNG-STITCH BUTTONlSEVING- MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

atented Jainil), MM5,

application mea may es, 190e. serial no. 210,263.

To aU 'wiwi/n it may concern.

Be it known that l, Jol-iN lV. Daman', Jr., a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing in the city of Baltimore and State of Maryland, haveinvented certain new and useful ln'iprovements in Reduced-Locking-StitchButton-Sewing Machines; 'and l do hereby declare the following to be afull, clear, and exact ldescription of the invention, such as willenable others skilledin the art to which it appertains to make and usethe saine.

My invention relates to improvements in button sewing machines, and theobject of my invention is to produce a machine which will sew a buttononto a garment or other fabric by means, whereby the sewing thread docsnot come through the under surface of the fabric except at one point,thereby ren dering the threads on the underside of the fabric almostinvisible.

Further objects are to sew a button on a garment or other fabricseparated therefrom by a neck of thread, and to wind a thread about saidneck of thread, which winding thread may be knotted by hand or byniachinery, or secured in any suitable manner.

lVith these objects in view my invention consists in the constructionand combinations of parts as hereinafter described and claimed.

ln the accompanying drawingswFigure l represents a side elevation of asewing machin.Y embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is an end view of theneedle end thereof. F 3 is a section on the line 3-55 of Fig. Fig. 4 isan enlarged bottom plan view of the blind stitch mechanism. Fig. is aplan view of the same. Fig. (5 is a sectional view o the same on theline G-G of Fig. '5. Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic view illustrating; theoperation of the machine. Fig. 8' is e view partly in section of thebutton'chuck. Fig. 9 is a view showing the button sewed to the fabric asit appears after the operation of my -iiiachine is finished. Fig. l0shows a part of the operating lever and its connections. l

ln this machine the sewing n'iechanism, winding mechanism. means forstarting and stoymmg these mechanisms, and the' automatic locks anddevices for preventing mistakes are substantially the saine as these setforth in my Patent No. @74h18, dated December l5, 1903, and a detaileddescription thereof need not there fore be given.

Referring to Fig. l, n represents the bed plate, Z) the vertical arm .ofthe goose neck, c the horizontal arm thereof, and d the end of thchorizontal arm. The mechanism to the right of the part b in Fig. l issubstan tially the same as that described in my patent above refer edto. Ilhe needle is driven by a shaft passing through Athe hori- Zontalarm c of the goose neck in the usual manner, and the needle is shiftedby means of a link e and the ordinary shifting plate This plate isprovided with a curved slot y, with an index scale thereon, and thepivot pin it of the link e adapted to he shifted along in the slot g andfastened in any desired positior in the well known manner. The plate ,fis pivotailly mounted in a bear ing on the goose neck in tee usual way.The means for holding' the. spool of the needle thread and the tensionand take up devices are all of the usual type. The plate 7i, however,which governs the motion of the needle also governs the action theswitch me 3h anism, hereinafter described, in the follow- .ing way: Thisplate has a slot j provided with an index scale. lnfthe slot j ismounted a screw is on which is pivoted a link Z. This vlink is providedwith a slot m, so that the pivot pinv 7c may he adjusted inv the groovej as desired. The link l as the plate y vibrates causes the upright armn of a bell crank lever to vibrate, this lever being mounted on. a. pino secured in brackets y) on the bed plate. The horizontal arm g of thisbell crank lever ope ates the horizontal arv r of another lever which ispivoted on a pin s in a bracket extending; downward from the hed plate.To the :free end of the lever r is pivotahy connected the link a.

The parte y and fr overlap and are slotted as shown at if, and throughthis slot passes a pin zo. rlhis is in order that the movement in eitherdirection of the arm y will cause the movement of the arm The bell cranklever n, o, is revolubly mounted on the pin o and may be fastened in anydesired position in the following,I manner: The bracket y? carries asector provided with a curved surface y, and on the arm Q is a boss 2which carries a washer overlapping the sector on the outside and theboss comes almost in contact with the sector A screw l is provided bymeans of which the arm g may ce clamped to the sector :a in any desiredposition.

rihe button chuck and windingl mechanism are carried upon a frame 3,which'. fraraeiis proridcd with two ears i and 5, which pass over pins(l and 7 attached to the horizontal arm of the goose neck and to the bedplate respectively. The frame 3 is therefore tree to rise and fall onthe pins 6 and 7. This yvertical motion is caused by a downward movementof a treadle (not shown) which operates a rod 8, Eig. 2, which rodpasses through a hole in a lever plate 9 which is mounted on a shortstout stub shaft 10, located in a bearing firmly screwed onto thevertical arm of `the goose neck. A spring 11 surrounds said bearing andnormally tends to bring the parts to their original position as shown inFigs. 1 and 2, the Weight ot the frame 3 and the parts attached theretoaiding in this motion. The lever plate 9 is provided with a curvedprojecting end 12 which is adapted when the rod 8 is pulled down toengage the under face of a projec- `tion 13 on the ear 5, Fig. 1, sothat a down* ward movement of the rod 8 will cause an upward movement ofthe frame 3 and the parts attached thereto. In order to prevent a rotarymovement of'the frame 3 around the pins (l and 7, a bracket arm 14: isscrewed to the horizontal arm c of the goose neck. This projectsdownward and is provided with a slot 15, through which passes a bolt 1G,provided with a nut 17.

The slot 15 allows the -frame 3 to rise and fall a short distance, butit prevents this trame from swinging backward away from the goose neekaround the pivot pins and 7, because the bolt 1G passes into the part 18oit the frame Through the bracket arm 14 passes another bolt 1S),provided with alnut '20. This holt reaches over to the part 18, but doesnot enter it, so that the two bolts and nuts just referred to, preventthe rotary rnotiono'lf the frame 3, but do not prevent the u p and downmotion of said frame. The nuts on these bolts are made adjustable, sothat the button chuck may be adjusted with reference to the needle, sothat it may pass through the holes in the button and so that it it isdesired to sew on a, vfour hole button, the button holding chuck may beshifted at the middle ot the sewing operation, as\de scribed in myPatent No. 747,0t8, but this button shifting mechanism is not shown inthe present drawing.

After a button has been eomjiletely ,scwed on, and it is desired to movethe fabric in position for a new button, to be sewcd on, it necessary toopen the button chuck, so that the new button may be placed therein, and'to open the tension oilt the sewing thread so that the garment or otherfabric may be pulled along. These two results are accomplished by thedownward movement of the rod S under the influence of the treadle.

The trame 3 carries an extension 21, Fig. 2, in which is fixed a rod 2,2extending up wardlv. and provided with a bent end which engages in theslot 23 in the horizontal arm 24 of a bell crank lever, which is pivotcdon a screw 25 secured in the end d of the'goose neck. The vertical armQG of this bell crank lever is brought down to a knife edge 27. T heupward movement of the frame il, carrying with it the'rod 22, swingsthis knife edge between lhe plates 28 of the tension device, Fig. 1,throwing them `apart and releasing the needle thread from its tension.

l'n sewing on buttons by machinery, each stitch is pulled tight by theltakeup and by die action of the succeeding stitch. To insure that thelast loop of thread shall be pulled equally tight, I have provided anauxiliary device independent of the ordinary takeup device, which pullsthis last loop up with a sharp jerk. This device consists of a curvedarm 29 provided with an enlarged perforated end 30 through which theneedle thread passes. The arm Q9 is firmly secured to a rod 31 passingnearly the lull length oi the machine. This rod ill is journaled all oneend in. a bracket attached to the goose neck, and at" the other end inan upright standard 33. At its right hand end, this rod carries adownwardly projecting arm it which is adapted to be struck by the rod3.3. This rod at the end ot the operation. of the sewing mechanism risesquickly, giving a sharp upward jerk to the arm di, which gives asimilarV jerk to the arm 29, thus drawing the last loop ot the noodlethread tight, inasmuch as the end Il() ol the arm 25) is located betweenhe trn- Ision device Alor the needle thread and the ruedle.

lhefbutten chuck performs similar functions to those oli the buttonehurk in my l'ormcr patent above referred to, and is shown on auenlarged scale in Fig. 8. It consists ot adjustable jaws 36 and UT,terminuting in hooks 38 and 39, which close around the lower edge of thebutton. These jaws are mounted upon a screw 110, provided with right andlett handed screw threads and having a milled head 41. "ly turning thishead, these jaws are caused to a pproaelr toward or recede from eachother at a unin :lorm rate, this adjustment being.,r provided in orderthat the machine may bc used for sewing on buttons of various sizes. Thebutton chuck is also provided with an adjust able rear jaw 42, see Fig.2, so arranged that as the jaws 36 and 37 are adjusted toward eachother, the jaw 42 will also be adjusted an equal distance toward thehenter ol :i line roimerting the jaws 36 and 37, such an adjustmeutbeing set forth in my patent above referred to. The chuck, however, ispro-- vided with a fourth jaw 4l,l*`ig. l, which is adapted to be swungaside as the trame 3 is iii'ted at the end of the ojieration. ol sewingon a button, so that a new button may he placed in the chuck. Thislifting operation Y, poinh r for said scale.

as described isfcaused by the downward movement of therod 8, and thismovement also swings aside the movable jaw 43 by any suitable means,such as those set forth, for

Iexample, in my prior patent already referred to7 or by means of thefollowing connections: ,In a slot in the lever plate 9 is mounted theend 44 of a lever, provided y-lwithvanfarin 45 and an arm 16, said leveri0 terr-ed to. Aldownward motion of the rodl 8, therefore, causes themovable jaw of the button chuck to swing forward, thereby opening saidchuck, so that a new button may be placed therein.

In Fig. 8, represents the plate from which the button chuck issupported. This plate is provided with a downwardly projectingcylindrical extension 56, which is bored out as shown in 57. Within thishollow extension 56 slides a sleeve 58 which tits in said extensionrather closely. The extension is also provided with a slot 59 throughAwhich passes a screw 60, and a washer 6l curved to it around the curvedsurface of the extension 56 is interposed between the head of said screwand the extension 56. This screw passes through said washer, through theslot 59, and into the cylinder`58, so that said cylinder may be adjustedas desiredv up and down in the extension 56. Preferably a scale is cutupon one face of the cylindrical extension 5G, and the lower edge of thewasher (il acts as a The cylinder 58 is hollow, and through it passes arod (r2 which :lupporls the button chuck. This rod passes freely throughthe cylinder 58, and a pin prevents it from falling through saidcylinder, or instead of a pin, the upper end ot the rod may be providedwith an enlarged head, both of these constructions being shown in Fig.8. The button chuck, therefolie. is l'ree to rise and fall a limiteddistance, vits supporting rod passing freely through the cylinder Thelower part of the rod 62 is expanded, forming a shoulder (35 'which litsclosely within the round hole 57.

lBetween this-shoulder and the cylinder 58 is coiled a spring G4 whichtends to keep the. button chuck in its lowest possible position, Awhilepermitting it to rise upwardly against the tension of said spring. Thecylindrical part 65 is firmly fixed to the cross piece GG of the buttonchuck traine, which includes two side pieees67 and 68 and anc` .er crosspiece 69. The upper ends of the side pieces lTand (Se are slotted asshown in dotted lines in Fig. and in lull lines at 70 in Fig. 2. and inthese slots plays freely a horizontal har Tl which is altached to ormade integral with the cylindrical extension 5G, which constructionkeeps the button chuck and the supporting plate ironi swingingrelatively to each other.

The ar D oi' the 'traine 3 when said frame is in its lowest positionrests solidlyT on a shoulder on thc pin T. which limits the downwardinovcincnt ol' said franie'f-S, thereh v limiting the approach oi. thebutton chuck toward `the 'lahriru rl`he distance between the bottoni oithe hutten and the fabric is determined by the position of the sleeve.3S which is adjustahly secured 'in its support by incans o't' t-hcscrew (il), while at the saine time thc button chuck is i'ree to' rise alimited distance against the tension of the spring lll, which alwaystends to rcstore it to the position sho-wn in Fig. 8.

On the niain traine L is mounted a bed plate '(2, the inain portion ofwhich terminates at the point Til, but is provided with projectingrarins Tfland TD which ilorin supports 'lfor the operating parts olE theshuttle. Through the parts T4 and T5 a hollowtube T6 is driven whichlits said supports hy what is ordinarily called a driving tit. On thetulle T6 is inounted the upper bearing portion or sleeve TT oif a linlv'78, and this sleeve is l'nevented lroin sliding longitudinally on thetuhe TG by the arms IT-l and T5. The link 7S is provided with a curvedlever 79 to therefore will eii'crt a lateral swingr of the link TS. Thelower part o'le Vthis link is provided with a split hearing Si, providedwith ears S2, 823, nnitcfl by bolts el. \"ithin the bearing Sl isrcvoluhly nionntcd the sleeve The sleeve S5 is provided on its rearwardend with an upward extension Si?. expanded at the top shown at 87-ST,Fig. 5:3. These lateral extensions have two vertical extensionsI SSMSS,which lit closely around the circular portion SS), which is torniedintegral with the hearing end oi" the arm 75, hut it will lic noter-l byrclcrenre to Fig. 3, that thc center oil tlu` circular portion Sl)issoincwhat ahorn` the center of oscillation o'lI the link 7S. Thepurpose ot this will lie hereinafter described. The front portion ot'this sleeve extends upwardly asshownat 90 in Figs. l and (i, but extendslaterally as shown at J1-lll in Fig, 4, and forwardly as shown at 92-92in said ligure.

To the vertical extension 9() is screwed the shuttle case 93, which isot ordinary construction. e'vccpt that it is cut away as shown at 9 4;in Fig. l in order to provide clearance for the sha'ft95 when swingingpast said shaft. vertical extension passes beyond the forwardextensions92 and terminates in a Acurved upper portion 96, Fig. 6. To thisein-.ved upper portion 96, the flat portion of the extensions 8?-87,91-91 and the curveil upper portions of the extensions SiS-88, screwed ashield 97, designed to preventthe fabric from getting into theworkingparts. This shield 97 is provided with slots hb2-9S, li`ig. 5, topermit of free movement of the Isaine past the supports 74 and Tof Tothe extensions 92H09. is screwed-the throat; plate 90, which is at itscentral portion bent up as shown at 100 in Fig. 1, makw lingaeorresponding bend in the fabric 101, to wl'iieh the button is to besewed. Above the throat plate 99 and substantially parallel tlicreto, isa clamp 102. mounted in ears 1023 carried by the throat plate. and aspring 101 coiled around the pin which supports this clamp and normally1forces the same dinvfn against the top ofthe fabric. The clamp 102 iseut away as shown at 105 for the imssage of the needle and to permit asiillieieiit el arance lor the button to come in erndaet with the cloth.The clamp 102 is also i'rovided with a projecting portion 106, beneathwhich a swinging lever 1107 isadapted to pass, lifting the clamp in"order that the workmar -be introduced between the throat pla-te andclamp, or withdrawn therefrom. As long as the lever 107 is turned intoits vertical position. the clamp 102 isheld up, because the spring 101presses the chimp downen the lever 107 and prevents it falling backA toits original po sition. As so m,.however, as the lever 10T is withdrawnby hand, thespring 104 brings the clamp down into position upon thefabrie, as shown in Fig. 1.

Inside the shuttle case'l is revolubly n'iounted the ordinary hook'andshuttle carried on the end of the shaftdQS, which is revolubly mountedin the sleeve B5. On the rear end ot' the shaft 108, is `mounted a gearwheel 1,01), which gear wheel-[meshes with the pinion 110 on the shaft111;A which passes through the tube or sleeve 76'. The inne.,r end ofthe pinion 110 bears against the end o1 the sleeve 7U, and the outerenfd of the shaft 111 is provided with an enlargement 112, whichconstruction prevents the lateral motion of the sha lit 111 and thepin'-A ion carried thereby. The sleeve 77 being connected with thesleeve Hl by the link 7h. it is obvious that no matter how much thesha't't 108 is osciiifited laterally. the gear wheel V100 and puiion 110will always ref main in operative relation with each other. With thepinion 110 meshes the large driving wheel 113 which is rotected by acasing 111 to keep the vtabriciroiu catching in the gears. This.asing'll extends out to the end of the machine as shown at 115, Fig. 1,

but is cut away as shown in Fig. to afford a sulliclent space for theswm ing of the plnlons and (mais, more especia l the gear wheel 109. "heforward end o the late T2 is slotted as shown at 116 to alfor the properclearance for the shuttle case 93 as the latter is swung back and forth.

The gear wheel 113 is mounted on the shaft 95, Figs. 1 and 1, which isshouldered as shown at 117, Fig. 4, and on which is mounted a bevel gearwheel 118 which meshes with a similar gear wheel 119, carried b v themain driving shaft 120 of the machine, which by its revolution drivesthe shuttle in the proper direction by means of the gearing alreadydescribed.

The operation is as follows: The button chuck is adjusted at the properheight in its support 56 to make the required length of' neck of thread.The operator places his 'toot upon the treadle, the lever 9 then liftsthe frame 3 and opens the button chuck, allowing a button to be placedtherein. Then the lever or catch 107' is moved under the projection 100lifting the clamp 102, whereupon the fabric is slipped over the throatplate, the treadle released and the lever 107 piflled out. whereupontheparts return to the position shown in Fig. 1 with the button held fastin the chuck. The sewing mechanism is then started in operation b vpulling down the rod 127 by means of the right hand treadle, asdescribed in in v Jformer patent already referred to.

'lhen the sewing mechanism performs its work, and cannot bevtamperedwith by the` operator until the sewing and winding operations ar'e.finished. During e sewing operation. however, the frame carrying theshuttle is tipped alternately from side to side. as showndiagrammaticall)` in. Fig. T, the ,result being that the needle enters'the :fabric at an angle thereto. this angle` depending upon they spacethrough which the shuttle carrying frame istilted. The plate f haringtwo index scales thereon, as already described, bhe links e and l .'houdbe adjusted in such. a way that the tilting olf the shuttle frame willalw .ze exactly L f -v portimial to the 'vibrzA .i ai of the ner-glierying' frame, so that the needle will i actly pass through the holes ot'the butto/.s and through the fabric at the desired ai' i in every caseto cause the needle to through but one point on the bottoni fabric whena twohole but-ton through two poil hen a four-l is used. The vibrationof the ing Ashuttle is caused. as ali-cad)v i by the movement of thebell. clank lcier n. 3. which causes the vibration ot tin; lei-er r andthe vibration oli the link' u, thus causing the shuttle fraine'tovibrate. as is shown in Fig. 7, in which the full lines repre it theparts as shown in horizontal positi that I do not limit myself to theexact details shown and described as these might be varied greatlywithout departing from the principle of my invention, the main featureof which if. that the sewing threads do not pass through the fabricparallel to each other, but at an angleto each other, therebypractically concealing said threads on the inner side.

I desire by' this appli 'ation to cover broadly a button sewing machinewhich will reduce the appearance ol the thread on the underside of thefabric, whereas in ordinary button sewing machines in which the stitchesare parallel to each other quite a large amount of thread appears on theunderside of the fabric, which is objectionable in fine work.

I claim:

1. In a button sewing machiie, the combination of a needle, means forcausing said needle to reciprocate and to vibra te, movable devices forholding the fabric, and means for tilting said devices in time with thevibrations oi said needle, therebycausing the stitches in the fabric toassume a pyramidal form. substantially as described.

2. In a button sewing machine. the combinati on of a needle, means forreciprocating and vibrating said needle to parallel vertical positions,movable devices for holdingr the fabric, and means for tilting saiddevices alternately backand forth, Vabout an axis so located withrespect to the needle that it is caused to pass diagonally through thefabric and through one hole on the under side thereof while passingtl'irough two or more holes in the button, substantially as described.

3. In a button sewing machine, the combination of a needle, means forreciprocating and vibrating said needle to parallel vertical positions,movable devices for holding the fabric, and means forl tilting saiddevices back and forth, about an axis so located with respect to theneedle that the stitches assume a triangular or pyramidal form in thefabric, substantially as described.

4. In a button sewing machine, the com bination of li needle, means forreciprocating and vibrating said needle, movable devices for holding thefabric, means for tilting said devices back and forth about an axis solocated with respect to the needle that the stitches assume a pyramidalform in the fabric, and a common operating means for said needleand saidfabric-hold` ing devices, substantially as described.

5. In a but-ton sewing machine, the combination of a yielding buttonchuck, and means for intermittently pressing a fabric aga'wst a buttonheld in said chuck, subsantially as describe 6. In a button sewingmachine, the combi sa id chuck lunison with the motions of nation of aneedle, means for reciprocating and vibrating said needle, a workcarrier, means for lvibrating said work carrier, and common operatingmeans for said needle and work carrier, including adjustable con`nec-.tions whereby the movement of the needle and the movement of thework carrier may be so timed relatively to each other that theneedlewill always pass through one point on the under side of a fabricand through several points on the upper side of said fabric,substantially as described.

7. In a button sewing machine, the combination of a button chuck, asupport in which said button chuck is movably mounted, said supportbeing provided with a stop which li1nits,tlie downward movement of theand a spring against whose tension said chuck may be moved upwardly,substantially as described.

SII a button sewing' nichine, the combination of a button chuck, asupport provided with a cylindrical bore, therein, a cylindrical stopslidably mounted in said borC, means for adjusting,lr and securing saidstop in said bore, said .button chuck being pro-A vided with a stempassing through said stop and with devices for preventing said stem fromfalling through said stop, and a spring between said stop and the mainpart of said button chuck, substantially as dcscribed.

9. In a button sewing machine, the combination of sewing mechanismincluding a Avibrating and reciprocating needle, work holding mechanism,means for tilting said work holding mechanism back and forth in saidneedle, means for holding a button in contact with the fabric during thesewing operation, and means for separating the button from the fabric toform a neck of thread after the sewing operation, substantially asdescribed.

10. In a button sewing machine, the combination of .sewing mechanism,means for holding the button in contact with the fabrie while the stitchis being made, means for separating said fabric from said button, andmeans for taking up the sewing thread While said fabric is separatedfrom said button,subst= intially as described.

11. In a button sewing machine, the combination of a reciprocating andvibrating' needle work holding means. button holding means, means fortilting said work holding means and causing it to simultaneouslyapproach said button holding means, and op crating devices for theabove-mentioned parts, substantially as described.

12. In a button sewing machine, the combination of button holding means,stitch forming mechanism, a work holding device, and means for tiltingsaid work holding device baek and forth, thereby causing the fabric toapproach the button while the 'l Si 10oll r scribed.

14. In a. button sewing machine, the conihination of hnton holdingmeans, a vibreing needle, Work holdin(r devices, and means for tiltingthe Work holding devices relatively to seid button holding means,suhstantially s described.

15min a button sewing machine, the comhinatioh of button supportingmeans, Worn holding devices, a vibrating needle, auto manic Ineens fortilting "ehe Work holding de vices during the sewing operation andontton shifting Ineens, whereby e four fiole on'1- ton may be used,substaniially as described.

16. In e bnton sewing machine, the com eination of button holding means,Work holding devices cooperating to clamp both sides of the work andmeans for tilting the Werl; holding devices, substantially as described.

17. ln a button sewing machine, the comcina-tion of button holdingmeans, Work holding devices adapted to form a. ridge in -lie Work, andmeans for tilting the Work holding Ineens transversely to the path ofthe needle, substantially as described.

18. In a button sewing machine, the combination of means for holding aflat pierced button having a plurality of holes, Work holding means, e.needle carrying e thread, and ineens for passing saidthred in successionthrough each of the holes in the button A ne right :ingles thereto vanddiagonally through the Work, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof, flix my signature, in presence of two Witnesses.

A DOLPH MILLER, M. Corin.

